Dragonboat Festival

Marking the 5th day of the 5th month is Duan Wu or Tuen Ng Festival (端午節). As with all other Chinese festivals, it comes with a legend that we all grew up with. Duanwu commemorates the death of the ancient poet and politician Qu Yuan (屈原) who became so dismayed with the Courts riddled with corruption that he threw himself into the Milou River. Locals who heard about it were saddened by his death so they threw rice dumplings as they rode their boats into the River to attract fishes so that they could leave his body alone, also to fend off evil spirits.

The moral of this story is about loyalty and solidarity, that no matter what happens, stand by your values. This is what I tell the children but equally have always found it challenging to explain why Qu Yuan would sacrifice himself by cutting his life short. But it also reminds us of the patriotism very much instilled in ancient poems and stories alike.

Fast forward two millennia, the legend stands as the backdrop to this Festival, which also takes place at the ‘Yang’est time of the year, symbolised by the double-5s. It is a reflection of the climate of the region around mid-June, when it is particularly hot and humid. There is also a saying that Duanwu marks the start of summer (暑) and before this time, people should have their winter clothes handy just in case any change of weather happens (未食五月糭寒衣不可送). This video that I found to show the children reminds us it’s also a time of bug infestation and some people will wear a floral pouch as a matter of self-protection. The cartoon zungzi (糭/glutinous rice dumplings) which come in savoury and sweet options are the key foods eaten on this day.

Here are couple of zungzi pictures when we last made them: https://www.instagram.com/p/CB2vFfKnKGQ/

I had taken part in the London Dragonboat Races for a couple of years with the joint-Hong Kong universities group. Then my husband also joined his company’s dragonboat team both in London and after we moved to Hong Kong. It was also around this time of the year when Audrey first started at the nursery and was introduced to the Dragonboat Festival by pretending to be in the race. Her siblings now learn it at their nursery/playgroup in the same pretend play and craft making zungzi with play food.

As with many festival foods these days, there are a plethora of zungzi available to purchase, from the local bakery to large restaurants. Both my grandmothers are remembered for making zungzi – different versions reflecting my maternal’s and paternal’s hometowns, at some time of their lives, but they probably stopped when the shop bought versions became widely available and if not better – there really was no need to make it. During Covid, I tried making it with my mum and the children but it was really a lot of work. First of all, the leaves are to be prepared, then you need to wrap the right about of fillings before you tie them up with some reed making sure it’s secure during cooking.

This year, I noticed that there was a lot more greetings about ‘Happy Dragonboat Festival’ – adding Happy in front of any festival seems to be commonplace these days, as if all of these festivals have become a Birthday or the New Year. It’s strange to slap Happy in front of Duanwu so you also find some greetings to be wishing you good health and peace on Duanwu such as, ‘端午安康’. It really shows how much more globalised our ideas of festivals and holidays are.

We viewed from the pier in Tai O this year, the dragonboat celebrations which also coincide with the festival of the ‘sea god’, Hau Wong (候王). Bamboo structures were set up and the aromas which filled the air amidst the humidity were numerous whole roast suckling pigs with a spread of rice dishes to feed the festival-makers representing different clans and institutions, managed by the women of these groups. Although I never participated in the races as a child, at every festival, either my grandmother or some relative would always bring back cut roast pork and fruits which had already been honoured to the gods worshipped during this time. My fondest memory about Duanwu was just playing outside with my cousins and returning indoors for a cold drink or iced fruit lolly/ice-cream scooped from the massive blue square tubs. Seeing how the tradition is still being kept alive by the younger generation brings back some kind of nostalgia but also makes me think what I wanted to show the children – by experiencing the drumming, shouting and aromas – perhaps that too will become a part of their childhood memories.