Recently, on preparing for a talk on gut health for a corporate wellbeing day, I came across some statistics on UPFs. That up to 60% of total energy intake in America, and between 45-50% for the UK and Canada, is contributed by UPFs is surely quite alarming. What this means is that UPFs have pretty much replaced most of our shopping baskets these days.
UPFs, or ultra-processed foods, have been in and out of headlines for a good part of the last decade or so. As with many nutrition topics, it is often debated whether UPFs are appropriately defined, given that a majority of foods are processed to an extent to suit human consumption these days. What stands out most for me with regards to the NOVA classification of UPFs is that, these foods which are defined as ultra-processed, are mostly made with the addition of *many* additives to prolong shelf life and enhance palatability, and meant for market to be sold at *low prices* for *mass consumption*.
As we are all increasingly globally connected, this really made me think how have UPFs reshaped the food practices in emerging markets such as those in Latin America and SE Asia given the influence of Big Food around the world. And the way UPFs are marketed is simply brilliant, they tap into our aspirations to live a modern life. One such example is sugar-sweetened beverages (SSB).
I remember coming across the way Coca-cola is offered at church altars in Mexico, which was such a powerful image to remind us that not only have UPFs fully integrated into our daily lives, but their special social status is concerning as households see these are more affordable items. In poor economies like this city in Mexico, the fact that FEMSA, the bottling company that is a subsidiary of Coca-Cola company, has exclusive rights to extract water to make the carbonated drink at copious amounts (and make locals consume) in a place where clean water is scarce, makes us think about the power and exploitation of Big Food in communities who are struggling to build a safe and sustainable future. And when you read about how industry ticks the box by saying they support SDGs you know that the money on the table is simply too good to put any of these promises into practice.
And it’s not just about nutrition and health, single-use plastics that are part and parcel in selling carbonated drinks, are one of the worst culprits in our environmental pollution, which also disproportionately affects poor economies like the Philippines. How and why have we become so addicted to UPFs then, when we know they are 1) not ideal (or really, bad) for our health and 2) bad for the environment?
Bee Wilson in her latest article for the Guardian argues that it is the lack of regulation which is the problem. And given its vast consumption, it’s now worse than ever that UPFs have pretty much owned the ‘infants and children’s food aisle’ at the shops. Simply look at the myriad of baby pouches and puff snacks available, all in their glossy packaging. And this is not just in the US or the UK, now even in the ones sold in Asia, such as these locally in Hong Kong.
These are certainly appealing to parents, for those on the go, or just simply to quickly appease the children, as who doesn’t like something sweet which comes out of a colourful packet? Importantly, as I spoke to Bee, these also tap into the aspirations for parents (mostly mums as feeding is almost always gendered) like me, to look smart and ‘be part of the tribe’. I’ve written two short posts here on Instagram sharing my thoughts.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHdCaRcT40V/?img_index=1 (@chineseweaning)
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHVRBt2ToES/?img_index=1 (@georginechikchi)
If the people like it, then is the industry justified to keep going about with their business?